Whether it’s adding a touch of color, neutralizing cool pigmentation, or achieving that sensual just-bitten look, lip blush is the go-to PMU technique for dark and dull lips.
But, what’s the easiest way to achieve that perfect pout with flawless shape and shade? Two words — color theory. No matter what the client is going for, the right pigment choice is crucial.
So, let’s see how things work in practice through some beautiful examples you can use to draw inspiration and elevate your art.
How Does Color Theory Work for Dark Lips?
As a general rule, each client is unique and the end result of lip blushing depends heavily on their skin tone and complexion.
Just take a look at how different the same lip shade can look on pale and dark skin tones:
@monica.raviii Reply to @magicmicah69 It looks dark mauve on @jazzi manalo and pale pink on me 🤩 Thank you color theory💯 Lipstick is from @Pixi Beauty shade evening rose ❤️💋#makeuptutorial#liptutorial#makeuptiktok#viralmakeup#beginnermakeup#makeupforwoc ♬ Monkeys Spinning Monkeys - Kevin MacLeod & Kevin The Monkey
Although topical makeup and PMU don’t work the same way, this is a good illustration of what we’re trying to say.
As you can see, it’s important to get a firm grasp of color theory so that expectations can be managed.
So, how does color theory work its magic on these unique canvases? Let’s take a look at the factors influencing the final result.
Natural Lip Pigmentation
Dark lips often come with their own, unique pigmentation. Consider the natural hue as a base, determining whether it needs to be neutralized or enhanced. The art is in working with the canvas, not against it.
Skin Undertones
Beyond the lips, consider the overall undertones of your client’s skin. Whether they’re warm, cool, or neutral can impact how the lip blush interacts with the skin, contributing to the overall cohesiveness of the look.
Check out this short TikTok tutorial and find out how to determine your client’s skin undertone:
@jileigha How to find your undertone! I hope this was helpful for you 💕 #blackgirlmakeuptutorial #blackgirlmakeup #indianapolisMUA #lifeofamakeupartist #undertones #undertonesmatter ♬ Kill Bill - SZA
Client’s Specific Needs
Addressing the specific needs of clients with hyperpigmentation requires a strategic approach and special knowledge of how to manage the overproduction of melanin and lighten dark lips.
For beautiful and lasting results, use color theory to neutralize any excessive darkness, opting for complementary tones that balance and bring out the natural beauty of their lips.
@lipblushldn Dark Lip Neutralisation transformation 🔥 #fyp #lipblushing #lipblush #darklipcorrection #darklipneutralisation #lipblushlondon #london #pmulips #foryoupage ♬ original sound - Samantha grace
Healing and Fading
Recognize that the color you see immediately post-lip blush application may not be the final outcome. Educate your clients about the healing process, and factor in how the pigment will settle and evolve over time.
@sakileenyc Healed one session 😍 NYC 📍#lipneutralization #darklips #darklipneutralization #healedlips #healedlipblush #lipblushtattoo #pmu #pmunyc #pmulips #lipblush ♬ Lucky - Britney Spears
How to Choose the Best Pigment Color for Dark Lips?
Finding the right permanent lip color for black and brown lips is all about finding the pigments that enhance and celebrate the natural beauty of darker tones.
Here’s your guide to selecting the best lip colors.
Coral and Orange for Step 1: Neutralization
Dark lips can sometimes have a cool, purplish tone that first needs to be neutralized if the client wants a pinkish/reddish lip blush.
To neutralize excessive pigmentation, coral or orange shades can work wonders. These colors provide a balancing effect, helping to even out and enhance the natural beauty of dark lips.
Sometimes, a neutralization can give a stunning shade on its own, when the pigments settle into the tissue. But if the client wants something extra, a target-color pigment is used as the next step.
Neutralizer Lip Color Correction Set
Neutrals and Nudes
For a subtle, natural look, opt for lighter shades or shades that closely match your client’s skin tone, but warm things up a bit.
Neutral or nude shades work well for dark lips and bring out their beauty without overpowering them.
Subdued Sienna LUXE Perma Blend Pigment
Spice LUXE Perma Blend Pigment for Lip Blush
Vibrant Pinks
Intense pink shades can add a bit of vibrancy to dark lips while keeping a natural appearance, as they’ll heal soft. They can brighten the lips without being too bold and daring (whiich is what they can look like on pale lips).
But clients should be aware that the color will always interact with the natural tone of the lips, so the results can’t look as vivid as the pigment in the bottle.
Bazooka Perma Blend Pigment for Lip Blush
Rose or Mauve Tones
Rose or mauve shades provide a flattering and slightly deeper lip color. They can enhance the lips’ natural beauty and work particularly well for clients with pinkish or cooler undertones.
Rose Royale LUXE Perma Blend Pigment for Lip Blush
Victorian Rose LUXE Perma Blend Pigment for Lip Blush
Berry or Plum Shades
For clients who prefer a deeper lip color, berry or plum shades can be the best choice. These colors add richness and depth to the cool-toned lips while still looking natural.
Berry LUXE Perma Blend Pigment for Lip Blush
Cranberry LUXE Perma Blend Pigment for Lip Blush
Customized Shades
The beauty of lip tattooing is its customization. If you can’t find the perfect match for your client, blend colors to create a unique shade that complements their dark lips and enhances their overall appearance.
You can use shade modifiers to warm up or cool down target-color pigments as needed.
What Does Lip Blushing Look Like on Dark Lips?
Lip blushing on dark lips yields beautiful and natural-looking results, enhancing the lips in various ways. Here’s what the process looks like and the outcomes you can expect.
#1: Subtle Enhancement
Lip blushing on dark lips often involves subtle enhancements that bring out the natural beauty of the lips without appearing too bold.
The goal is to achieve a natural “I woke up like this” look by using colors that complement the client’s skin tone (and match their favorite lipstick shade) perfectly.
Image source: Instagram @lipblushto
#2: Rich and Warm Tones
Warm-toned pigments, such as deep reds, berry shades, and warm pinks, are commonly used to create a rich and flattering look that complements various skin tones.
These hues bring attention to the lips’ depth and dimension while allowing for versatile makeup styles, from everyday elegance to glamorous evening looks.
Image source: Instagram @lavishliplounge
#3: Evening Out the Pigmentation
For clients with hyperpigmentation or dark spots on their lips, lip blushing can work wonders in providing a more uniform and corrected look with a lasting, flawless finish.
The process helps neutralize excessive pigmentation while maintaining a subtle and refined aesthetic that aligns seamlessly with the client’s features.
Image source: Instagram @luxestudiocosmetics
#4: Defined Lip Contours
Lip blushing goes beyond coloring - it contributes to defining the lip contours and restoring juicy fullness, providing a beautifully toned and balanced pout.
This can be especially beneficial for clients with naturally thinner lips that may have lost their volume and definition towards the edges.
Image source: Instagram @artistry_by_lena
#5: Gradual Fade for a Natural Look
The pigments applied during lip blushing are designed to gradually fade over time as they heal, contributing to a more natural and subtle look.
This fade allows for corrections and adjustments to be made in follow-up sessions if desired.
Image source: Instagram @jasminediebelius_pmu
What Does the Lip Blush Procedure Look Like on Dark Lips?
Lip blush on melanin-rich lips is a special treatment that requires patience and time, and it’s usually broken down into 2 to 4 sessions.
We have explored the details of the process below.
Consultation
It is always important for a PMU artist to have an initial consultation with their client. This allows the artist to assess the situation and better understand what the client hopes to achieve from the treatment.
Dark Lip Neutralization
If the lips need to be lightened before coloring, a neutralizing pigment is applied to the area to correct the dark tones.
Blue shades are neutralized using an orange-based pigment, and yellow ink is used to balance purple tones.
It may take 1-3 specialized sessions of lip neutralization to get the targeted color and achieve the desired results.
Target Color Lip Blush
Once the lips have been neutralized and made a few shades lighter, it’s time to create a fuller, pinker-looking pout by adding some color to the area.
Darker-skinned clients can pick from loads of exciting colors, especially warmer orange and earthy red tones.
These shades are a great place to start but may need another session to see how the client’s body processes the color.
Main Takeaways
With so many different colors to choose from, choosing the perfect lip blush pigment for dark lips can feel overwhelming.
However, with a solid understanding of color theory, you should feel confident to open that initial conversation with your client. Embrace different options and work together as a team to decide on the perfect color for them.
And remember, it’s all about finding the shade that not only complements the client’s natural beauty but also empowers them with confidence.
This product-focused resource supports PMU artists and professionals performing related aesthetic treatments in choosing and using appropriate tools and supplies.
