Contributor: Andrea Aries, PMU Artist and Educator
We know you love peaking into fellow artists’ supplies kits!
This time, we’re talking to Andrea Arias, an artist and Phi educator for a wide range of lip and brow techniques, from microblading to powder to combo to machine strokes. Here are her go-to products + some extra advice!
What is your 1 top favorite, holy grail Phi product you can’t work without?
My favorite product of all is the PhiBrows Super pigment. I am in love with its consistency and especially its healed color result. In addition to it being the cleanest pigments on the market!
What is your favorite blade for microblading?
My favorite blade for microblading is PhiBrows Master Blade 304. I especially love using the disposable tool. It allows me to create clean and super fine strokes.
What is your favorite needle for hair strokes?
My favorite needle for hair strokes is 1-point needle 0.30.
Phi PMU Cartridge 0.30 1R
Depending on the skin type I can use thinner or thicker needles, but always go with 1 liner – a single-point needle.
As you may know, many professionals use 3RL needles or even different cartridge configurations, but I always feel more confident with single-point needles.
I think, as artists, we must try different needle options and then just choose what best suits us.
What is your favorite needle for powder brows?
For powder brows, I also use a 1-point needle, normally 0.30 but sometimes I will also use 0,25. It depends on the client.
Phi PMU Cartridge 0.30 1R
Phi PMU Cartridge 0.25 1R
What is your favorite needle for lip blush?
As you see, I am a big fan of 1-point needles!
In lip micropigmentation, I use 0.30 1-point needles a lot, although I must confess that I most frequently use 0.18 or 0.20 nano needles from PhiAcademy and Vertix.
Phi PMU Cartridge 0.18 1R
Vertix Pico 0.20 1RL
I really love the effect that can be achieved with these nano needles!
A Little Tip
If you choose to use nano needles, you must be aware of working with a very light hand at all times.
What pigment do you use most often for brows?
Generally, the colors I use the most are PhiBrows Super Brown 1 and Brown 2. Most of my clients have hair color between blonde and brunette.
PhiBrows Brown 1
PhiBrows Brown 2
It is worth mentioning that the general age range of my clients is between 35 and 65 years old and I always prefer to work with softer colors and wait for the result. It’s always better to build from less to more, than to go too intense immediately.
What is your favorite pigment mix for brows?
My favorite color mix is PhiBrows Super Golden Brown with a touch of Super Brown 2. I really like the ashier tone that the color acquires with this mixture for cold blonde hair.
PhiBrows Golden Brown
PhiBrows Brown 2
On darker-haired clients with darker brows, I like the combination of Super Brown 3 with a touch of Fox or Red, to achieve a warm healed color.
PhiBrows Brown 3
PhiBrows Fox
PhiBrows Red
What pigment do you use most often for lips?
I really love to create super natural results, especially on lips. My favorite result is a slight color effect.
To achieve it, I use many different pigments from different brands but, if I have to mention which ones I use most, it would be PhiContour Flamingo.
PhiContour Flamingo
What is your favorite pigment mix for lips?
This is difficult to answer since I have several favorite combinations. But if I have to choose, I could say that my favorites are Flamingo and Flame from the PhiContour line, or Malina and Bare by Evenflo.
PhiContour Flamingo
PhiContour Flame
Evenflo Malina
Evenflo Bare
Products in Action
What products and supplies did you use for this treatment?
For this machine stroke procedure, I used PhiBrows Super Brown 1 pigment with a touch of Brown 2 and a 0.30 needle. The goal was to achieve ultra natural, not very bushy eyebrows for a client who does not usually wear makeup. I think I succeeded!
Phi PMU Cartridge 0.30 1R
PhiBrows Brown 1
PhiBrows Brown 2
What products and supplies did you use for this treatment?
For this lip blush procedure, I used a 0.30 point needle and a mix of pigments: Flamingo and one drop of Activator by PhiContour () in the first session, and only Flamingo for the touch-up) for a natural color result that enhances her natural lip color.
PhiContour Flamingo
Phi PMU Cartridge 0.30 1R
Andrea’s Extra Tip
I am a huge fan of the no-makeup makeup effect, so I specialized my techniques to give that effect.
The main trick in any procedure is to aim for natural results and not overwork the skin.
My advice for performing a procedure with precision and detail, whether on eyebrows or lips, is to stretch the skin correctly, use the tools at a correct angle (I always prefer 90 degrees), use little product for good visibility, and take into account the phototype and skin type of each client.
This is how you can obtain super natural results that improve the natural facial features of each client.
Why Take Andrea’s Advice?
Andrea Arias is an experienced artist and PhiAcademy educator with a long career providing services and training in a wide range of brow techniques and her unique way of doing lip micropigmentation. She is one of the most successful Phi artists in Argentina, with a successful PMU business in Buenos Aires.
Andrea loves sharing her knowledge and expertise. She’s the creator of the upcoming PMU B SIDE podcast where she’ll be taking you behind the scenes of micropigmentation.
With the vision of creating a space where different professionals would share their tips and tricks and, above all, share what their process was like from an emotional aspect and personal development, we thank Andrea for sharing her insights with PMUHub’s audience!
This product-focused resource supports PMU artists and professionals performing related aesthetic treatments in choosing and using appropriate tools and supplies.
